I recently did an energy audit of my house and discovered that my pool was a major energy hog. Due to the salt chlorination system we need to run the filter/chlorinator for between 2 and 10 hours a day to maintain high chlorine levels. We run it longer in summer as the chlorine gets removed by sunlight (even with stabiliser chemicals).
We use a salt-chlorinated system (common in Australia) where about 20A at 12V is passed through a special salt cell that causes chlorine gas to be made from the slightly-salty pool water. You dump a few 25kg bags of pool salt into the pool every year to provide the chlorine ions, the salt cell adds electrons to make dissolved chlorine. If you keep the chlorine levels high enough, it kills the algae that would other wise make your pool bright green after about a week.
I attached my power meter to the pump/chlorinator and measured 860W (200W for the chlorinator cell, 660W for the filter pump). Based on an average run-time of 6 hours/day that’s over 5 kW-hrs a day or around $300/year at my current tariffs. Added to this is a new salt-cell every 3 years (at $300 each) plus a legion of algicides, stabilisers, and other exotic potions from the pool shop. All up I would estimate around $700/year, plus maybe $150 for every “green pool event” which occurs if (well, when, actually) we are not diligent.
But it’s the 5kW-hrs a day that really bugs me. You see I want to install a PV solar array for my house that will generate perhaps 9 kW-hr/day total. No way I want to use a good chunk of that power on a pool we hardly use. That sort of energy waste is just so 20th century! To be honest I would be happy to cover the top of the pool and turn it into a 60,000 litre rainwater tank, but on a good day it does look kinda nice:
So I started looking around for alternatives to chlorine. Some Googling brought me to the Floatron. This gadget uses a completely different principle to zap algae – ionisation. Rather than using chlorine it injects small amounts of copper ions into the water, which apparently kills algae but doesn’t bother us much. The cool thing is that copper ions last for 3 weeks, regardless of how hot it is. This also means that the copper ionisation process can be solar powered, as just a minute amount of electricity is required.
The testimonials looked good, so I tracked down the Australian distributor and bought one. It wasn’t cheap, about $450 delivered. There was much “wailing a gnashing of teeth” over the price by my wife, sick of spending money on that (add choice Italian swear word) POOL, but I convinced her that if it worked it would pay for itself quickly. I was a little bit nervous about the purchase, I mean, if it’s that good why can’t I buy one in my pool shop? More on that question later.
So I threw it in the pool about 2 months ago and duly followed the instructions. As the copper levels built up I reduced the chlorine by lowering the time we ran the pool filter/chlorinator each day. So far so good, the pool is healthy and my energy use is way down. After 2 months I now feel I know how to manage the pool using the Floatrons ionisation method.
With the Floatron you still need trace amounts of chlorine (about 20% of what is normally required). As well as killing algae chlorine also acts to keep the water clear. Initially, in my rush to reduce energy consumption I reduced the filter/chlorinator run time to just 1 hour a day. However the pool water tended to be a little blue-green and cloudy (e.g. objects on the bottom of the deep end were fuzzy). Any sort of green in normally a sign of algae breeding madly, so there was a moment of panic!
However I think it was more a case of dissolved (but benign) particles in the water rather than a run-away algae event. I upped the filter/chlorinator run time to 2 hours a day and after about 3 days: clear blue water, about as good as I have ever seen our pool. The chlorine level was still very low (maybe 0.3ppm, way lower than 1.5ppm required normally), but the water was clear. Normally at this time of year (November) we would be running the filter/chlorinator 6-8 hours/day.
Now this management of the residual chlorine level gives me an added level of control. I could drop back to 1 hr/day on the pump if I wanted to. I would get cloudy water but who cares if I am not using it? No risk of an algae attack so I can rest easy. Then, if we have an imminent party or kid invasion coming up, I just up the run time to 2 hours a day to get clear water. I like having this choice – previously I was forced to keep the run time (and expense) up, waste power and effort, as if my pool ever went green it would take me 2 weeks and $150 of algicide/shock treatment to fix it.
This got me thinking about the whole salt chlorination system and business model, and the reasons why using ionisation (rather than chlorination) isn’t that common. I mean the Floatron has been around for 15 years, so why aren’t we all using it?
Think about a salt chlorinated pool. If something goes wrong, e.g. the salt cell gets blocked or you flick a switch the wrong way and you don’t notice for a few days you get a green pool quickly, as the chlorine level drops immediately, especially in hot weather.
The warmer it gets, the more quickly the the chlorine breaks down, so the more you need to run your pump/filter/chlorinator. We varied between between 3 and 10 hours/day over the year, more in summer if the chlorine levels were low, or if the salt cell was nearing the end of its life. Plus you have the expense of a $300 salt cell every few years (we have gone through 2 in 7 years). Being chemically-challenged and slightly lazy we always end up with 1 or 2 “green pool” events a year. This means a trip down to the pool shop, $150 worth of shock treatments, algicides, and much stress and head scratching while we work out what we did wrong this time.
There are other benefits apart from reduced energy costs. Running the filter and chlorinator for a only a few hours a day reduces lots of wear and tear on expensive equipment, perhaps as much as 80%. Using ionisation to kill bugs means less risk of the pool quickly spinning out of control and going green as the copper ions last 3 weeks compared to chlorine in summer that lasts just a few hours. Now all we really need to buy is a few litres of acid a month to keep the PH between 7.2 and 7.8.
So the Floatron is a great thing for a pool owner but a very bad thing for a Pool Shop owner. Just about every dollar we spend at the pool shop is related to chlorine in some way, for example pool salt, algicide, new salt-cell, stabiliser. It even saves on filter sand and kreepy-krawly (automatic pool vacuum) replacement parts as they wear in proportion to filter use. This works against the Floatron – what pool shop would stock a “product of death” to their other lines?
I have two minor criticisms of the Floatron. Despite paying for itself quickly I think at AUD$450 here in Australia it is too expensive. I would suggest something closer to the US price of US$270. Having said that I would happily buy another one tomorrow at AUD$450, just my gut feels says it should be a little cheaper. The printed manual is well written and tells you everything you need to know but is written entirely in UPPER CASE. THIS MAKES IT HARD TO READ GUYS 
(note however the on-line manual from the Floatron web site makes good use of lower case).
So in conclusion I think the Floatron is a great product, and ionisation is a fantastic way of maintaining a pool compared to chlorination. I figure with energy prices rising the energy costs of luxuries like pools need more attention. Ionisation is low on energy, low on chemicals, less chance of algae, less irritants, and less visits to the Pool Shop!
Links
Low Energy Pool – How I used an old salt cell and the Floatron to reduce my pool energy consumption by 75%!
Found the floatron page… it’s solar powered.
It suggests that hydrogen peroxide can be used as an oxidiser to replace chlorine… so if you get a corona discharge (not UV) ozone generator you might be able to totally dispense with the need for any chlorine. Ozone units use a few watts of power (depends on the size of the unit)… so your power usage would drop dramatically.
…now I’ve just got to work out how to reduce the power requirements of the pump.
Hi Michael,
Yes that’s right many oxidising agents can be used. I am currently using the salt chlorinator plus some solid chlorine pills. It’s now the height or summer here, and I found that I need roughly 0.5ppm chlorine (as the manual says!) to keep the pool nice and clear.
So I am running the filter about 4 hours a day, which is more than I would like, but much less than pre-Floatron (8-10 hours/day). I figure I can propably drop that back to 1-2 hours for the non-summer months, as discussed in the original post.
Yes, it would be nice to try some alternative to chlorine. Not really sure where to start though…..e.g. what concentrations would be required, how to measure them and where to source equipment.
Cheers,
David
Thanks for the information & feedback, we are currently considering a Floatron.
Regards Rose
Floatron for sale($199) Moved location no longer have a pool. I found it amazingly cheap to use and extremely effective
You may be interested in looking at this site for some additional ideas:
http://truetex.com/poolcontrol.htm
This fellow used a linux box to automatically turn on and off the pool pump based on the number of hours of daylight. I also have a salt water chlorinator (even though I’m in the US) so I was thinking of adapting his idea to control the chlorinator and the pool pump separately.
Mike
hi Paul Coggins – just stumbled on this site and we are looking for a floatron. Is yours still for sale?
This is a great read. I too have a salt chlorinated pool and have just put a 2kw solar panel system in my house. I am keen to try the floatron but I didn’t see anywhere in the article where exactly you tracked it down. I would love to know.
Cheers
Chris
Hi Chris,
The distributor is:
Hillarys – Swimming Pool Equipment & Chemicals
Cornfield Place
Hillarys, WA, 6025
Ph 08 9401 5911
I have a floatron because when I bought the curent place I own it was in the pool. the company above stocks spare parts, including replacement electrodes to keep the pool clear, currently $90, lasts about 18 months, with very little to zero maintenance.
Its a great product, as it cut my chlorine usage by 90% and I’ve actually turned off the pool pump/filter for months at a time with no problems.
Cheers
Mike
I also have figured out that you don’t need to run a pump 8-10 hours a day; I run it 2-3 in summer (in S Fla!) and 1-2 in the winter.
How about water taste? I heard all sorts of praise for Bromine and Salt systems and was ready to go there – until I swam in and tasted the water of one…ich! If the water tastes metallic/copper tasting, I need to know. Otherwise it sounds promising….any info from a consumer research program? Who’s the manufacturer?
No taste that anyone has noticed, much less chlorine smell (and skin irritation) however.
A very effective and easy to find oxidizer is potassium monopersulfate.
Great Floatron Article – I am interested in buying one but have been quoted A$687! Where did you buy yours at A$450 September last year?
Any readers have second hand ones or know where it can be bought at a reasonable price, in Australia.
They are only US$300 in the US ie A$470!. Does anyone know – is there a problem buying one from there? Guess you would pay 10% import duty/GST.
Thanks in advance
Paul, Perth WA
Excellent article! Now I have more confidence in buying one. look forward to saving money from chlorine purchases and electricity bills. As a pool owner I understand your many frustrations with the pool. here are some websites that have helped me out. By the way Im not a salesman and don’t work for any of these companies…feel free to take an objective take for yourself.
Automatic pool cleaner: JetDemon Cleans pool in 2 hrs, uses own filter bags and not the pool filter, very low electricity use, and doesn’t wear out parts like belts. Check it out for yourself…
http://www.aquabotsuperstore.com/pooldemons/jet_demon.htm
here is a website for using everyday household chemicals instead of buying expensive ones from the pool store…
http://www.poolsolutions.com/gd/grocery.html
This website has useful info on dealing with cloudy/algae water and innovative pool products…
http://www.askalanaquestion.com/cloudy_pool_water.htm
Wish you all the best of luck and Cheers mates! Or as we say in SoCal (southern California) Take it easy Bro!!!
Floatron now costs about AUD570 + AUD20 shipping from Perth.
Contact through http://www.floatronkoifish.com/
Another source for the Floatron is http://www.smarthome.com. Search for Floatron. Item number 3241.
Costs USD289.99 plus shipping (USD47.89 via USPS International Priority Parcels (has tracking)). Total USD337.88. Need to use PayPal to pay. With the AUD exchange rate the way it is today, you can save a lot.
Took about a week to get to Sydney, including a week-end. Could be quicker if you order Monday their time. In and out of Customs in six minutes.
Floatron themselves will not ship to Australia, even though their shopping system seems to allow you to place an order for shipping to almost any foreign country. I called and was told that our Government requires $500,000 from them before they are allowed to ship here.
Wow great post! It’s clear you’ve done extensive research. I agree with your strategy on tackling energy-costs. To many people are concerned with small stuff like shutting off the lights (which consumes probably 50 cents worth of electricity if you leave it on a whole year). Instead, it is much wiser to go after the “big ticket” items. Kinda like with personal finance where its easier to save on items like a used car then avoiding starbucks.
Most people don’t hear about low-energy pools. There should definitely be a market for them considering how much electricity normal pools consume.
Hi,
I just purchased a floatron online from smart home. I sent them an email to Floatron Australia but they have not replied and don’t have retailers on their website even though they say they only sell wholesale. We have just put on a 3kw system and the pool pump uses so much power as does the solar water pump to warm the water in the day as we live in Victoria. The article above appeared in Renew which I received in the mail a couple of days ago.
Just ordered it off smarthome also. Not really cheaper than USA prices but I paid in aussie dollars through paypal around $350 delivered. For me my aim is to drop pool filter pumps from 6 hours to say 2 will let you know and thanks for the article……
Hi Marc and Debbie – good luck with your Floatron. Over the last few summers we have run our filter on 3-4 hours a day, down from 8-12 hrs/s in summer pre-Floatron. In winter 1 hour/day. Haven’t been to the pool shop in 2.5 years for algicide, shock treatment etc!
Some times in winter (or when we go away) I turn the filter off entirely for weeks at a time. It then goes cloudy, and a little green. However you just run the filter a few hours a day, and maybe add a few chlorine tablets to get the chlorine to 0.5ppm and within a week it’s back where you want it. Much easier to recover from than pre-Floatron where it would take a legion of chemicals to bring it back. It never really “runs away” with the Floatron system.
Currently I am working on a solar powered salt-cell with no filter. Just the salt cell sitting in the pool. I want to reduce my 3-4 hours/day filter run time in summer to 1. So the idea is generate small amounts of chlorine I need from a small solar panel, rather than running the filter just to make chlorine. I’ll blog on this soon.
- David
i would love to purchase a floatron. i live in australia. where can i get one?
is the website http://www.smarthome.com – ie a US website?
Hi David,
Just read your article in renew… nice work! The Floatron sounds like a good idea for controlling algae in swimming pools. FYI, the traditional chemical for controlling algae in surface water is copper sulphate, so I have no doubt the Floatron provides a similar type of treatment for algae.
The only issue I had with your article is that you don’t seem to address the potential problem of pathogenic microorganisms in your pool. Although chlorine will assist in killing algae, its main benefit is to reduce pathogenic microorganisms, originating from human faecal matter. To effectively kill these pathogens you need a relatively high concentration of chlorine maintained for a defined amount of time. There is also a second group of pathogens not easily destroyed by chlorine, known as Protozoa. Protozoa are usually removed by filtration.
I’m sure that this is not a huge problem for your plan as long as you avoid swallowing the pool water. Although this could be the reason (as stated at the bottom of your article) that the Floatron can only be used in ponds under the Aust Standards.
Hi Nick,
Thanks for your comments – sounds like you know your chemistry! The Floatron site has a test report that suggests the Floatron also zaps microorganisms, but you would be better placed than I to evaluate that report (the sample size is just 1).
The Floatron is approved for use in many other countries. My personal view for non-AU approval is that it is death-to-pool-shops.
Nick – if bacteria became a problem, how would it manifest itself? For example would the pool change colour, or would a harmful level of microorganisms remain at the invisible level?
Could I evaluate the number of micro organisms in my pool using a microscope or simple equipment? Would be a great test to try.
Cheers,
David
Hi David,
Yeah, I work as a drinking water scientist for a Water Authority.
Microorganisms are invisible to the naked eye even in high concentrations, and due to the nature and variety of microbial species that can be regarded as pathogens, it is very difficult to test for all of them. In the water industry we tend to use an indicator organism known as E.coli. If E.coli is present then it is likely other harmful species are too. The test for E.coli is relatively simple but unfortunately needs to be conducted by an experienced laboratory to get accurate results. The test is usually cheap. You will need to do several E.coli tests to see what’s happening as the levels will change after each use of the pool or addition of chlorine. Most healthy humans can tolerate consuming low levels of pathogens and sometimes build up some resistance [this is why most people on tank water don’t get sick], however young children, the elderly or people with low immune systems may get very sick.
FYI, to produce safe drinking water we usually dose at about 5 mg/L (ppm) at the inlet to our water storage tanks. This level drops off quite rapidly due to the chlorine demand in the water (i.e. reacting with organic compounds, microbes etc) to 0.1 ppm.
So I guess an alternative to the lab testing might be to occasionally superchlorinate your pool to kill off most of the microbes, then run it as you’ve suggested the rest of the time. Also remember to maintain your filter to minimise chlorine resistant protozoa (e.g. Cryptosporidium).
Here’s a few Vic Gov websites that may be of interest – http://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au/bhcv2/bhcarticles.nsf/pages/Swimming_pools_water_quality?OpenDocument
http://www.betterhealth.vic.gov.au/bhcv2/bhcarticles.nsf/pages/Swimming_pools_infection_control
Good luck…
Thanks Nick, BTW I think your posts above would make an excellent letter to Renew commenting on the Floatron article. Good information the share.
Cheers,
David
I’ve been using a Floatron in my swimming pool now for well over 10 years (with no sign it is wearing out). I have found it works well. I really great bonus has been I only need to attend to the pool once a week, instead of every day. It definitely saves lots of money, massively reduces chlorine needs and pump use.
For those looking for the quick find on Home Smart for the floatron, click on the link below.
http://www.smarthome.com/3241/Floatron-Solar-Powered-Pool-Purifier-Low-Maintenance-Pool-Purification-System/p.aspx
US Dollar price $289 plus shipping $47.89 = $336.89
As a converted cost in AU dollar as at today 30th December 2009
using .88 for conversion = $382.83
Our quarterly electricity bill is regularly AU$80 to $100 higher than our neighbours and we run the filter during off peak hours between 1am to 7am each day.
Let alone the ongoing costs of chlorine and other chemicals, top up water(tank), water blanket and roller, any other maintenence and time!
There are only two of us in our home, and we rarely ever use the thing (pool) any more. But is looks great and adds “value” ?? !!!
So any reduction in chemicals and electricity will more than pay for itself in less than one year.
So the initial cost is short term pain for long term gain!
Mine is now on it’s way here.
Hi Nobby,
Thanks for that link.
An average of 6 hours a day, at 1100W (our pump + salt chlorinator) is 6(1.1)(0.2)(365)/4 = $120 per quarter at 20 cents/kWh. But as you say thats just the start with pools.
- David
My only concern is though that every picture I have seen of the Floatron it has it in a pool without a solar cover. Here is South Australia we have requirements that the pool has a cover. Does anyone see an issue of perhaps the floating being in a localised area (a cut out in the pool cover) or the separation of the solar panel from the electrodes? Obviously separating the two would void the warranty on something that is expensive but my concern is that I don’t want to take the cover off for extensive periods.
I live in SA but I don’t cover my pool. The Floatron manual (search on pool cover) suggests leaving a part of the cover off or making a small hole, just big enough to fit the electrode. Especially in the off season I don’t think it not moving will be a problem, as the ions will diffuse with occasional filter runs or just by themselves.
Cheers,
David
Hi,
Could anyone comment on the actual amount of direct sun needed to make the Floatron work?
In QLD, pools are often built to get a lot of shade and mine for instance, probably doesn’t get much more than 2 h/day of sun on part of the pool only.
Similar issue if we get a couple of cloudy/rainy summer days (but still hot). Will the floatron just stop working or is the diffuse light enough to keep the ionisation going?
Wondering also how long would the electrode last or any other parts?
thanks
Phil
Hello Phil,
It’s a good question. Couple of things to consider:
1/ Everyones pool gets some shade, mine probably gets 5 hours/day direct sun in Summer.
2/ Even then the Floatron may drift to a shaded part of the pool, so I figure most people don’t anything like a full day of sun on their Floatron, and it’s probably designed for this.
3/ The electricity from the solar cells is reduced when out of direct sun, but it’s not zero.
4/ It takes about 3 weeks for the copper ions to build up and about 3-6 weeks for them to drop away. Much slower process than Chlorine, which can drop out in 1 day. So several days without sun is no big deal.
5/ In my pool (60,000 litres) I have the Floatron in for about 2 weeks out of 4 to maintain the copper level. In a heavily shaded pool you might need it 100% of the time.
6/ You could always leave it in a bucket in full sun for a few days then dump the water into the pool.
- David
Phil,
My first electrode lasted 2 years and cost $100 including postage for a replacement. Like the Floatron I feel it’s overpriced (the electrode is a simple copper rod) but it’s a lot cheaper than the costs associated with the alternative Cl system. There are no other parts that need replacement.
- David
I’m very new at this and find the chemical jargon confusing. I live on the NSW/Q’ld border and my pool is in full sun for most of the year. It is a 75,000 litre pool and I wondering whether it would only require one Floatron. I have just experienced a ‘green pool’ event due to a clogged salt chlorinator and never want to go through that exercise again.
Primarily I am looking at a way to reduce the electricity cost associated with running a pump 10/12 hrs per day during the summertime.
I’m also wondering whether anyone has looked at the possibility of having the pump filter running as a ‘stand alone’ with its own solar panel?
- Sue
Based on my experience with a 60,000l pool one Floatron would be fine.
A 1kW grid connect PV system would about cover your pool energy use, hell of a waste though.
I am experimenting with powering just the salt cell from a 20W solar panel. The salt cell is sitting in the pool with no pump attached, just both ends open. I am relying on natural circulation, and I can see bubbles coming out all day long while the sun is up.
I also have the regular salt cell connected to my pump, and currently run the pump 2 hours a day. The pool is staying clear however the Cl level is very low, so I think I need to try a bigger solar panel.
- David
Can anyone give me an Australian supplier of the Test Ion kit for the Floatron, ours is aout to run out. ‘Fish’ website WA. in past comments here
does not seem to be a supplier – just an information site.
Dianne – I purchased my replacement electrode from sales_at_floatronaustralia_dot_com so I imagine they would carry the test kits.
My wife had a question after I asked my last one about what happens if things are not running right. At the moment you go to your local pool shop, get the water tested and then they tell you how much of your money you need to spend on their product. If the chlorine levels are being substantially reduced how do you get accurate testing of the other levels? I am really keen but need to convince my wife fully before we will be able to give it a shot.
Thanks
Hi Anthony,
Yes I recall those detailed pool shop tests, usually followed by $150 leaving my wallet! I think the other chemical tests would still work, but the pool shop will tell you you chlorine is way too low. They will also tell you to add shock treatment or similar which wipes out the copper and interferes with the Floatron operation.
Once a week we just test chlorine, Ph, and (very rarely now) the Floatron copper level.
To be honest we dont really need visits to the pool shop any more to get the water tested.
The most common thing for us is the chlorine goes to zero, and we get a cloudy or a slight greenish tinge. However if you bump the filter up a few hours/day or add some chlorine tablets when the chlorine reaches 0.5ppm the pool is clear again. Its very easy to correct, unlike the previous “green pool events” which were major problems (runaway algae I guess).
In winter or when we go away I turn the filter run time right down and let the pool go cloudy on purpose, knowing I can recover in a few days if I need to use the pool.
- David
Great info David – thanks for starting this blog. I’m in Perth WA and have been concerned about the pool power for some time. This sounds like the answer.
Does anyone with a Chemigem (auto chlorinator) also use the floatron? I guess I can just set it very low. But what about the acid which is also added automatically? Would I turn that down too?
My company supplies Del Ozone, Dontek Ionizers, Water Quality Testing Strips and Meters. I’m also an energy Assessor conducting Sustainability Audits. One of my colleges directed me to your Blog David.
Answer to James is yes wind down the Chlorine but not the Acid you need to maintain your pH levels. Chemigem and an Ozone or Ionizer is the perfect combination.
I recently changed over a Salt Chlorinator to an Ozone system for a customer who was closely monitoring their energy consumption with a Climate Smart meter. The running of the pool went from 9kw p/h to 6kw p/h, using a 3rd less energy is a huge saving on energy and money not to mention the saving on using less chemicals.
A 240v ionizer or ozone only costs on average $20 per year to run anyway.
My next advice to anyone using alternative sanitization methods is that you will need to take care of pool yourselves and educate the local Pool Shop if you must. Simple accurate Testing Strips are available Pool Check 3 in 1 Copper Tests for Copper, pH and Total Alkalinity, Pro Ozone Tests for Ozone. If you local Pool Shop isn’t maintaining Ozone or Chopper charged Pools it is very likely that the Copper Tablets used in the Test will be expired when they come to test yours.
For more info please feel Free brett@poolbits.com.au
Great post David,
I read it a while back and have been looking into the floatron for a few months. as well as your electric car exploits, which is truly fantastic.
I have an eBike and am increasingly envious of you!
Theres a site thats based in the US that sells the floatron for $299US but they dont mail to Australia?!
The cheapest I have found it here in Perth is $450AUD +$20 postage from the Hillarys who are the local distributors. seems like rather a large markup, anyone know anywhere cheaper?
http://www.smarthome.com/3241/Floatron-Solar-Powered-Pool-Purifier-Low-Maintenance-Pool-Purification-System/p.aspx
Hi Brad,
Actually I am kind of envious of your ebike
But my pushy is about the only exercise I get 
A people above seem to have ordered from the smarthomes site, not sure how the handled shipping.
I paid $450 AUD from a Perth Floatron dealer and it has been well worth it.
Cheers,
David
Just had a call from Floatron Australia in WA. They will ship for $450 plus $20 postage and handling. Phone 08 9401 5911. When you work out exchange rates and fees this works out to be a pretty good deal especially as they handle all warranty claims and fully support the product.
In addition to my last comment. I just ordered one from WA on the phone but he said that, although he is looking for distributors in the Asian region and in the eastern side of Australia, it can be ordered from him using the email.
This is really a good post, and thread. I live in the US and a site SolarDirect.com sells the floatron for US$289 and the thing seams wonderful. I was considering a UV system to lower the clorine levels. For me I am just sick of the pool with the high clorine levels, so we tend to let them fall low, maybe because we forget or because we are cheap (but cost more later if not maintained, I know it) but mainly I just don’t like the clorinated water. I feel bleached every time I get out of the pool. Anyways this thing sounds the best and technically it seems the cheapest of all the options out their the UV system is like $600 and you still need to maintain the clorine levels like the floatron. Also the replacement for the bulbs is just as much as the replacement electrode as the floatron. I do like the UV because it says that it kills the e.coli and all the other little bugs out there. But the floatron does not really address this. As mention in this post already. That is the one thing I want to know more about. I will me making sure we get one on these for or pool this year.
Hi,
Ive had my floatron in the pool for about 3 weeks now.
I dropped it into the pool with a tiny little bit of chlorine just as the pool was just starting to “turn” and I was a little worried that it would be too much for the little thing to deal with 55,000 litres of algae filled water, but between it and the chlorine it has slowed the initial spread of the green menace and has since turned the pool back to its normal state. the chlorine is now only at a trace level and the copper is ionising nicely. so far so good!
David, how did you go with your solar powered salt cell?
Hi Brad,
Good to see your Floatron is working out for you. Yes the salt cell experiments worked out really well. Here is a link to a blog post describing the work.
Hi,
The Floatron sounds great, but before deciding to buy, if copper ions do the work of keeping the green algae from growing, what about just putting in a teaspoon of copper sulphate in the pool every few weeks. That adds copper ions just like from the Floatron copper anode. Anyone think otherwise? Copper sulphate is very cheap.
Doone – I have wondered the same thing. Please try it and let is know!
- David
G’day Dave,
My Dad spotted the floatron in an eco magazine and told me all about it. After reading this blog to see the pros and cons I decided to buy one. I live in north Qld and have had it in the pool for about 2 and a half months now and have the pool pump down to 2 hrs a day. We moved into our property just under a year ago and in all that time the pool has NEVER stayed as clear and beautiful for 3 weeks better loan 2 and a half months. I am very happy with the results so far. Just have one concern though I was wondering if anyone has had any dramas with black spot I am beginning to see a few large black spots here and there that are not wanting to scrub off. (Hopeing they are bat droppings)as I am not familiar with black spot algae. They are all different sizes and shapes. If you could give me some feedback as to if there has ever been black spot concerns with not running the pool as much while using the floatron, it is a 60,000 ltr fibre galss salt and chlorine pool. The copper kills algae doesn’t it? or is black spot a whole new kettle of fish.
Many thanks Dave I apreciate your time.
Kind Regards
Hi there,
I have had the Floatron for 3 months now after finding out about it in Renew.
So far I have not had a green pool and so am happy in that respect. However every time I do an “ion test” I still am only getting the bare minimum reading and so haven’t dropped my Cl production down as much as I had hoped to by now. I have been cleaning the electrode every week with the wire brush. My pool is 84000L and I live in southern NSW where it gets very cold.
Any tips?
Thanks
PS Have loved reading all these comments!!
G’day Dave,
False ALarm, Definatley NO Black Spot, have found it is only leaves leaving markes, but they come off over time or straight away with Chlorine.
JENNY I have also found that my Ion doesn’t get to the level they say it should either, but have decided not to worry about it as it is beautifully clear and at this time of the year I have turned the pool off for a week at a time and found that it stays beautifully clear as it has always been since I out the floatron in.
The Floatron is awsome it is keeping my electricity bill right down and no chemicals except a cup of Chlorine maybe every 2 months before guests come over.
I RECOMMEND IT TO EVERYONE!!! Very happy customer
Cheers
Just found this blog and our compnay Bioniser use to be the importer of the Floatron before selling it to WA. Have quickly read most of this blog and the agree with most things said espaecially the part apart pool shop not pushing ionisers because of lack of chemicals sales.
Pushing my own boat for a moment and helping to answer concerns about bacteria, is the new product we sell called a Bioniser. The anodes have a high level of silver (6%) contained in the mix to kill bacteria which a Floatron never had. This silver with small chlorine or Hydrogen Peroxide levels (0.4ppm) will kill bacteria faster than even just straight chlorine. Read this report http://www.questia.com/googleScholar.qst;jsessionid=MDzJw6cskmzV29sTFwjD21V2ht2q1WjqJRrRrtQNZvL7ldQHvv1h!-730112469!-1455036664?docId=5002317684 then have five minutes.
In relation to power concerns a Bioniser draws 13w/hr so about $4.98 per year in 50,000 L pool from last calculations.
Thanks for the blog David, it helped us with the decision to purchase a Floatron back in early February. We are in a similar location to Sue (7 Jan 2010 reply) with a similar size pool which gets full sun in the swimming months. Found the Floatron works as advertised. Looks like the electrode is wearing out fairly quickly, so we’ve taken it out during non-swimming season as we only need to run the pump for 15 minutes per day to keep chlorine up at 3ppm (pool is always covered when not in use). Then when the swimming season commences, we curl the corner of the cover back and pop the Floatron in, bringing the target chlorine back to the 0.5ppm. So for us the Floatron is a swimming season tool for not having to wind the pump/filter run time up so much. It seems a versatile little thing!